Celebrated Singaporean chef Akmal Anuar on how his mod Malay restaurant is a way to carry on his family’s legacy

Last November, Dubai-based Singaporean chef Akmal Anuar opened his first restaurant in Singapore, marking a return to his roots after launching eight successful concepts across the UAE and New York City, including one-Michelin-starred restaurant 11 Woodfire in Dubai.
During a recent visit, the 42-year-old shared with 8days.sg that his drive to open Harummanis Sultan Gate, a 40-seater Muslim-owned restaurant in Kampong Glam, was deeply personal. Named after his parents’ 32-year-old nasi padang stall in Teck Whye – which is still operated by them and his sister – the restaurant reflects his commitment to his family’s legacy, despite their initial reluctance.
“They felt the name wasn’t fancy enough,” Akmal revealed. His mother had originally named their stall after the Harumanis mango, whose name means “sweet-smelling” in Malay. “They thought I should go with something more international. But I believe it’s important to stay true to what we represent,” he said.
His parents were ultimately moved by his dedication, with the restaurant’s opening bringing tears to their eyes. “I came back to open this restaurant for my parents. They’ve hinted before about how I’ve opened restaurants in Dubai, so why not here as well? I opened Harummanis Sultan Gate because I want to carry on my family’s legacy,” he explained.
Before relocating to Dubai, Akmal honed his skills at prestigious fine dining establishments in Singapore. Even though he was the head chef at mod European restaurant Iggy’s, he was virtually unknown in Singapore. He also cooked at Les Amis and Saint Pierre. “I definitely felt like I was underappreciated during those years in Singapore,” he told CNA Luxury in an earlier interview.
In 2013, he took on a new challenge as a chef collaborator at Zengo in Dubai’s Le Royal Meridien Beach Resort & Spa. “My life in Dubai was amazing,” he reflected. However, feeling “lazy” and “tired of the comfort zone” after two and a half years, he sought change, marking the beginning of his restaurateur journey.
In 2016, he sold his family’s five-room HDB executive flat to raise around S$500,000 in capital to open his first restaurant in Dubai, 3Fils, with two partners – a move that he admitted, in hindsight, was “very impulsive”. The venture had a rough start. “The first year was bad. I was broke. There were so many meltdowns and fights. I even came back to Singapore to look for a job, but the salary was low. I was stuck at the point where I was too good to be employed and not good enough to be a business owner,” he shared.
Describing himself as a “highly motivated person”, Akmal decided to persevere, putting in “endless hours” at 3Fils. Eventually, the business became “very successful”. However, in 2020, Akmal exited the venture due to a dispute that he prefers to keep private.
After his departure, Akmal and his wife Inez launched White Rice Co, a Dubai-based F&B consultancy. “She’s the best at negotiating with landlords,” he said cheekily. Working with different collaborators and investors, their global portfolio includes the contemporary Asian diner 53 Restaurant in New York City and the modern Japanese restaurant Otoro in Abu Dhabi.
Reflecting on his achievements, Akmal, who left school aged 10 to help at his parents’ stall, grew emotional. “It’s a dream come true. I’m opening restaurants in cities I wished I could’ve worked in when I was younger. I’m a Malay boy with no education. My parents are hawkers. I’m going to open a high-end Japanese restaurant in Paris soon. It’s crazy, you know?” he shared.
Harummanis Sultan Gate holds a special place in Akmal’s heart. “My original plan was to offer fine-dining Malay cuisine, presenting the food I grew up with,” he revealed. However, he soon realised that his vision conflicted with Singapore’s market realities. “I was living in my own bubble in Dubai,” he admitted. “Now I know that this cuisine needs time. Some people don’t get how Malay food can be fine dining.”
“People would compare and say the rendang at nasi padang shops is cheaper. They don’t see the added value [of dining at Harummanis Sultan Gate],” he noted. To adapt, Akmal introduced a more affordable, mid-range menu with prices starting at S$37 for a signature set available for lunch and dinner, and S$110 for a five-course tasting menu for two, down from the original S$65 and S$165.
“Even at [my parents’] Teck Whye stall, people complain when there’s a S$1 increase in price. This is just how the market is; we can’t be frustrated with it,” he said. “I’m not disappointed, it’s just how life is. You have to get people to trust you, people who celebrate what you do.”
Akmal and Inez visit Singapore monthly to keep the restaurant running smoothly. During our visit, we met their three charming daughters, who were on school break. Their presence added to the restaurant’s warm vibe. Akmal’s parents and sister often drop by the restaurant after closing their hawker stall. His 68-year-old mother helps to prepare the seasoning for some of the restaurant’s signature dishes like rendang and sambal goreng, ensuring that the flavours remain true to their roots.
Their hawker stall operates independently from the restaurant to preserve its unique identity.
Decked in warm, earthy tones with wooden floors and furniture, the restaurant exudes cosy yet elegant charm. A lush wall of greenery livens up the space, while a striking oil painting of Harummanis dishes adds a pop of colour.
Recently, Akmal transformed the restaurant’s private dining room into No Strangers Here, a cafe with its own entrance but linked to Harummanis inside. “The private room didn’t get enough bookings to justify keeping it open,” he explained. The new cafe offers around 10 seats and features espresso-based drinks, pastries and house-made bombolinis.
We enjoyed the Cempedak Latte (S$7), a rich and creamy concoction that mingles well with the fragrant pulp of the tropical fruit.
Highlights for main dishes include the Lamb Shank (S$45) infused with their signature curry spice mix, Rawon (S$35) featuring beef shin shank cooked with buah keluak, and Ayam Masak Putih (S$28), a grilled chicken dish cooked in spiced coconut milk.
Served on a rustic wooden tray, this set menu feels like a modern twist on traditional nasi padang.
We chose the Sambal Goreng Pengantin as our main, a luxed-up version of the classic dish featuring juicy prawns and tender beef lungs in a robustly spiced, earthy sauce.
Traditionally an Indonesian salad featuring tofu and bean sprouts in a peanut sauce, Akmal’s Ketoprak includes a Japanese twist – refreshing, crunchy wakame and kombu – on top of spinach, tofu and peanuts in a tasty goma dressing.
This trendy take on rendang features moist, mildly spicy shredded beef shank between crispy fried mantou buns. We loved the addition of avocado salsa, which adds a refreshing, creamy contrast to the sandwich.
Serving beef carpaccio at Harummanis Sultan Gate is a bold statement. “Malays tend to eat food that is fully cooked. Nothing raw. I wanted to push the envelope a bit,” Akmal explained. The result is an elegant dish featuring Australian wagyu tenderloin, thinly sliced and dressed in white truffle oil, and for a touch of familiarity, shrimp paste. Topped with crunchy jicama, this is an impeccable dish that we’d gladly finish on our own.
An elevated take on a lesser-known Malay creation. This dish features succulent grilled chicken simmered in coconut milk infused with aromatic spices like ginger. Charred corn adds a smoky sweetness to the velvety sauce, an excellent final touch.
Harummanis Sultan Gate is at 37 Sultan Gate, Singapore 198485. Open daily except Mon, 12pm to 8pm. Tel: 8022 9647.
This story was originally published in 8Days.
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